Rosacea is a common condition; one I treat almost every day, and my heart goes out to all Rosacea sufferers. I have had the pleasure of seeing many cases over the years and after twenty five years in the business, it is truly rewarding to see first-hand how amazing the results we obtain can be. Indeed, this condition is often triggered by unsightly factors, and can thus affect both the quality of life and confidence of those suffering with the condition.
Rosacea is a chronic, abnormal flushing of the skin that mainly affects the central face. Characterised by flare-ups and remissions, it is a largely treatable condition that is easy to bring under control with the right forms of skin therapy. Whilst it is possible to develop rosacea at any age, and through many different ways, it typically begins after the age of thirty, as a flushing or redness of the cheeks, nose, chin, and forehead. Several studies have shown that this redness can become ruddier, and more persistent over time, a process that is thought to be due to an increase in the visibility of blood vessels within the affected region. When left untreated, rosacea may be associated with inflammatory bumps and pimples, and in severe cases — particularly in men — swelling and widespread erythema of the nose. In up to 50% of cases, the eyes may also be affected, resulting in irritation of the sensitive skin, as well as a watery, or bloodshot appearance.
From my experience, genetics can play a role in the way our body deals with the associated inflammation. Though it is poorly studied, and a concrete link has not yet been found, all the clients I have treated seem to know someone with rosacea — whether that be a father, a mother, or an aunty. In addition, research has indicated the significance of Demodex mites in the development of rosacea. Found in our pores and sebaceous glands, these mites are an integral part of the natural flora of the skin, and normally contribute to immune related functions such as the removal of dead cells from the skin surface. However, when in excess, these mites may have detrimental effects; and indeed, sufferers of rosacea have been found to have 10 times as many in their pores as individuals without this condition. Factors such as an oily surface, abnormal heat regulation, and age promote bacterial overgrowth within these mites, thus causing the symptoms of rosacea. Furthermore, the abnormal flushing on the skin can affect capillaries on the skin surface, causing weakness and degradation of the vessels which can lead to permanent scarring.
Signs of Rosacea
The symptoms of rosacea can vary from one individual to another, and does indeed, in most cases, involve only some of the potential signs and symptoms outlined above. Signs can range from persistent redness of the skin, to thickening of the surface, with the most common symptom of rosacea being flushing. Often, this is associated with bumps and pimples, and can also present with visible capillary damage and irritation around the eyes. Secondary signs and symptoms of rosacea include burning, and/or stinging of the skin, which can often lead to itching and a feeling of tightness around the affected areas. In addition, dryness and aggravation of the surface layers of the skin can lead to oedema, or swelling, that may present as generalised blotchiness.
Rosacea triggers
Whilst they vary from individual to individual, studies have pinpointed a range of different triggers that may facilitate rosacea flare-ups through their inflammatory effects.
- Foods: spicy or thermally hot foods, and/or foods high in histamine.
- Beverages: alcohol (especially red wine) and spirits, hot drinks such as hot cider, hot chocolate, or coffee.
- Emotional influences: stress and anxiety are particularly indicated in rosacea.
- Temperature-related: saunas, hot baths, overheating and/or excessively warm environments.
- Weather: excessive sun, strong winds, humidity.
- Drugs: vasodilators and topical steroids.
- Medical conditions: frequent flushing, pregnancy, menopause, chronic cough, caffeine withdrawal syndrome.
- Skincare products: some cosmetics and hairsprays (specifically those containing alcohol, witch hazel, or fragrances), hydro-alcoholic or acetone containing substances, any other product that causes redness or stinging.
Rosacea Treatment
We understand that avoiding all of the triggers listed above is often easier said than done. However, they should be taken into consideration by sufferers of this condition.
Key information I have found effective in treating rosacea over the years:
- Avoid applying oils and balms to the skin. Such emollients act to trap heat within the skin, thus exacerbating inflammation and therefore rosacea symptoms
- Avoid exposure to high amounts of cortisones. These will weaken and thin the skin surface, thus preventing the natural healing process from occurring.
- Use a gentle cleanser. I advise use of XCELL MEDICAL SKINCARE’S HARMONY. Harmony effectively cleanses the skin without stripping it of its natural protection layer. It removes surface debris such as excess oil and makeup but maintains its natural hydration. It is important also to ensure that you do not cleanse your skin in the shower; direct, hot water can irritate and inflame the skin surface, avoidance of which can make a significant difference to rosacea affected skin.
- Incorporate a medical strength Vitamin A serum into your skincare routine. I advise use of a Chirally correct product, such as XCELL MEDICAL SKINCARE’S ULTIMATE A or POTENT DNA+. Created for sensitive, inflamed skin, they are designed for the absorption of a high amount of active ingredients without any associated irritation. Xcell+ MEDICAL STRENGTH VITIMAN A boosts collagen production, cell proliferation, and healing, all of which can help minimise breakouts and combat textural changes to the skin surface, helping to improve the skis immune function.
- Opt for a lightweight moisturiser that mimics the skin’s natural protection layer. The irritation associated with rosacea acts to drop the pH levels in the skin, thus acting to dry the skin surface. As such, it is of utmost importance to maintain moisture within the skin; this will not only nourish the surface and reduce inflammation, but it will promote healing. I suggest the XCELL MEDICAL SKINCARE MOISTURISER SATURATE which was specifically formulated with this condition in mind. Containing all the components of the outer, protection layer of the skin, it’s primary purpose is to mimic, hydrate and heal, helping to restore the skins acid mantle for optimal functioning.
- Exfoliation of the skin must be done in a gentle manner. Avoid scrubbing the skin surface as this will damage the natural skin barrier and therefore promote flare-ups. I advise use of XCELL MEDICAL SKINCARE’S ENZYME AWAY and an AHA like XCELL MEDICAL SKINCARE’S LACTIC ACID SERUM, ALIVE. Whist the former acts prevent the accumulation of dead skin and subsequent congestion, the latter allows for gentle exfoliation and the added benefit of hydration. Both work to brighten the skin, and prevent the irritation associated with rosacea, improving the skins barrier functions.
- Control acute flare-ups with small amounts of benzyl peroxide or a topical antibiotic. Application to the direct area of inflammation destroys the bacteria that has built up within the skin follicles, thus gently removing papules and extracting irritants that may be hidden within the pores.
- Always use a Zinc Oxide 20% sunblock. At this strength, the zinc is proven to reflect harmful UVA and UVB rays off the skin, thus reducing the inflammation associated with excessive heat.
- Supplement zinc and essential fatty acids. Not only do they act to reduce inflammation, they aid with natural skin healing and healthy development of its flora.
Regular Laser and IPL treatments. These are extremely effective in treating the condition, with American laser companies delivering superior, patented technology that far surpass cheaper models. Indeed, the energies they use have been shown to have immediate effects, with the Cutera Genesis infrared laser being particularly effective in the treatment of rosacea. It’s anti-inflammatory effects not only destroy harmful bacteria, but break down scar tissue that may have developed through ongoing flare-ups of rosacea. The IPL machine, another used for this condition, combines bio-polar radio frequency to improve the overall health of the skin.
